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Old 05-13-2014, 09:48 AM   #1
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Lowering chackles length

Hello,

am about to install my 2.5 inch drop springs in the front of my 2003 2x4 hemi ram. I'm running a home built flip kit in the back with home made lengthened shackles. For now the truck sits at stock ride heigth in the front and levelled in the back, if anyone who is running a 2.5 inch front drop with a level back has the time, could you measure the shackle length in the back. That way I know how much I have to shorten my shackles now.

Home built flip


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Old 05-13-2014, 02:29 PM   #2
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IMO 2-1/2" drop using spring alone is too much and will have alignment issues. I would suggest putting your original shackles (will need a c notch) on the rear and adjust the front to the height you want. Highly recommend Mcguaghy drop spindles and then a slight trim of the spring to make it the height you want. I know you have great fabrication skills so you might construct dropped lower control arms. Just thinking out loud.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dj...model/ram-1500
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:55 PM   #3
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I've been watching alignment youtube vids, trying to understand what all is involved. What exactly is the alignment issue you are talking about is it caster, camber or toe in? And what exactly is causing the problems, is it the factory adjustability that isn't large enough (thinking specifically about the slots for the upper a arm) or is it another problem?

Drop spindles are out of the question now financially.

I have just checked mcgaugy's products and they have a 2 inch front (different spring) 4.5 inch back drop in their products, wich leads me to believe it should be possible?

Dropped lower control arms, would that be deepening the pocket where the spring sits in the lower control arm? Never thought about that, but wouldn't be that hard and make is look 'stock', might be an option. Wouldn't this lead to alignment issues?

As usual thanks for your advice
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:25 PM   #4
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You see how the caster and camber changes when bouncing the front of the truck. This is due to the upper and lower control arms being different lengths, so as the suspension travels these settings are in constant change. The folks with bagged trucks really know how to manipulate the geometry to keep this to a minimum. I think Dodge didn't do a very good job of it and relied on minimizing the travel to keep geometry in order. If you notice the factory bump sits very close to the lower control arm at stock height. My solution was to knock the factory bumps off and replace them with timbren springs rated to control both travel and absorb the hard compressions. These work hand in hand with the shock making the shock more effective as the bumps absorbs more of the dynamic load.

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Old 05-13-2014, 07:04 PM   #5
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the alignment issues come in after 4" drop up front the factory slots are not long enough to get proper angles for a good alignment.

? hows your wheel hop with those traction bars you have there? i made homeade long bars to elminate all hop but my hp is higher than most.

also that looks like you cut the factory spring seat off and set it under the axle to align it to the tube? if so make sure you weld that back to the axle to keep it from twisting on you. you will be amazed as to what power can do back there.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:08 PM   #6
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They look to be Caltracs, I have a set of those also and they work great.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:45 PM   #7
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Bit of conflicting info here guys

My plan now is:

Elongate the slots for the upper A arm, might not be necesary, but doesn't hurt and in case I do need it during algining, it would be **** to have to tear the suspension apart.

Cut of the bumpstop cups, hole saw a same diameter hole in the bumpstop cup mounting plate and recess the bumpstop cup. I'll measure the clearance between the bumpstop and the lower control arm as mu truck sits now with the stock springs and aim for the same clearance after lowering the truck. (a bit of a redneck substitute for the timbren rubber springs)

Still need the length for the back shackles for the 4,5 inch drop in the back (with axle flip kit), that would be a huge help. It's hard to 'calculate' the length with the angle they are on, and trial and error would involve a lot of work and welding on the shackles.


Any major flaws you guys see in this 'plan'?
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertaHemi View Post
They look to be Caltracs, I have a set of those also and they work great.
They are a 'blatant' caltracs copy and have eliminated my really bad wheel hop completely. Reason I copied them is that although I find that a set of caltracs is reasonably priced, copying them is labour intensive and the build quality of the original producht is a lot better than what I achieved, after adding shipping (heavy and large) plus import taxes they would've cost me over 500$.

Previous pics of the spring perches was during installation, since have the spring perches fully welded on both sides. Also set the pinion angle using a digital level measuring from the pinion flange and starter mounting surface on the motor.

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Old 05-14-2014, 04:52 AM   #9
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:37 PM   #10
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Christoff, This a picture of a Mcguaphy shackle, that give a 4-1/2" or using the bottom hole a 4" drop. I have the original shackle on the truck now which should be close to 6".

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