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Old 09-21-2012, 01:53 PM   #1
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I am having second thoughts about a detail I drew. Which means revisions and the whole follow-up mess.

Question:

Which is less expensive? Floor framing over a beam using blocking and a tie or framing into a beam using hangers (which in this case would be hangers for TJIs * plywood trusses)? I know one is going to be more in material and I know one or the other will cost more in labor?

Er...I would place this on a construction message board...I just don't need to join something for one question and never see again.

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Old 09-21-2012, 01:53 PM   #2
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I am having second thoughts about a detail I drew. Which means revisions and the whole follow-up mess.

Question:

Which is less expensive? Floor framing over a beam using blocking and a tie or framing into a beam using hangers (which in this case would be hangers for TJIs * plywood trusses)? I know one is going to be more in material and I know one or the other will cost more in labor?

Er...I would place this on a construction message board...I just don't need to join something for one question and never see again.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:07 PM   #3
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Are you going to be doing the building or do you have a contractor? Does your local code specify what you have to use?
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:30 AM   #4
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Doug - This all started out as one of those you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours. So I enlisted one of my local friends, a retired contractor, to take a look at my plans to make sure it all made sense and to see if there was something I might have not seen to save some dollars. Coming in here, was like asking for a second opinion. As with all contractors, in the desert land of AZ, having construction done for a main floor done out of wood is virtually unheard of. Main floors, in the lowlands of AZ, is mostly concrete flatwork on ABC on finish grade. We design and build second stories, of course, but the beam that carries the floor framing is typically "pocketed" into floor system so there is no unsightly 'bump' in the ceiling. In my case I called out for the floor framing (main floor) to have hangers (same as I would do for a second story), thereby eliminating the idea of having the floor framing resting on top the beam which would require blocking and ties per code (I figured the latter as labor intensive). There was a second reason, which allowed all my interior beam piers and interior piers for my bearing post to be constructed to the same height. A very straight forward approach to ensure a level floor. Anywho, after all I have told you and after I started this thread yesterday, we had a discussion and came to terms that it is a wash one way or another. The wife and I appreciate all the business friends we had made the last 25 years and this includes our business competition in AZ. We looked out for each other when times were good. We are having a contractor build our home in the mountains of CO. However, I learned in the past when submitting plans for bids or for permit it is what it is when it goes hardcopy then to the construction site. My clientele always pushed for aesthetics, but number 1 was cost. Now that I am one (a client) I understand the cost part. Just doing my best to keep it real.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:24 AM   #5
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Just doing my best to keep it real.
I hear you! When we decided to leave the city we ended up living in a 29' camper. The first folks that looked at our house bought it right then....we wanted to be here before the school year started.
I went to a local bank to see about interim financing. The bank President was a nice enough guy and told me to just bring him some figures and it shouldn't be a problem. Not knowing anyone here I ask about builders. He recommended a guy that built his house. Met the guy and drew a basic floor plan on a paper sack. He said give me a few days and I'll have something for you to look at......We got a floor plan and one elevation. It looked like what we wanted and the price was well within what we expected... It took a while and with me working I wasn't able to spend as much time checking what was being done. Leaving for a job before daylight and getting home after dark there wasn't much I could see.... Little did I know how crappy a job was being done. But, like I said we were in a hurry to have a place to live and get out of a camper....three of us and a dog. Basically it looked good. Within a year I began to find "short cuts" they had taken. If I ever have the opportunity to build again I will go over every step of the plans before the dirt work even starts. We sure learn a lot "after" the fact.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:34 AM   #6
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Jim, as with all wood structures, you have to remember that over time it will start to weaken and sag. In all honesty I would recommend that you go with blocks and ties. I now it's more material and maybe a bit more expensive but in the long run you'll have a stronger floor framing and less problems as the wood ages and weakening and you can feel people as they walk through the room. This will also give you the option for heavier items that you may place in the room as well without needing additional support under the framing.

This is the current problem I'm having in my house, it was built in 1963. Unfortunately I don't have a job so I can't afford any upgrades or repairs for this issue. Also for anyone else that is reading this, for your garage door framing, I would highly recommend that you go with a tube steel or iron header above the garage door, this too is another area I will need to fix - the sag cracks have started appearing in my stucco about 2 yrs ago.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:11 AM   #7
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Thanks Doug and Neil.

I took a little time yesterday and drew-up an "option detail" so the contractor can pick and choose his preference.
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