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New Member with a Crazy 545RFE

7K views 61 replies 11 participants last post by  Ghost03hemi 
#1 ·
Hi folks,

My name is Pete. I live just outside beautiful Denver Colorado, and I have a 2011 ram 2500 5.7 4x4 SLT that has apparently lost it's mind.

I rebuilt the engine and transmission over the last few months. The engine runs great, no engine codes at all.

I wish I could say the same for the trans. This is the 3rd 3/4T auto I've rebuilt over the last few years, and I'm stumped. I replaced all clutches, seals, etc inside the trans, installed new OSS, ISS, line pressure sensor, solenoid pack, of course filters too. I took it out for a test drive around my neighborhood, and everything seemed fine. I shifted up to 3rd in auto mode, and manual mode seemed to work like it should. I took it out on a longer faster drive, and I think I never got out of 3rd. I took it on an small highway, and it was definitely not shifting right. I was turning 2500 rpm at 55 mph. I don't know if that was 3rd or 4th, but it certainly ain't right.

Now I have only 1st gear, I have gear ratio codes and hydraulic codes.

Is it possible the PCM has died / is dying? I probably have to take it to a dealer to be sure about that, I'm guessing. Why else would the manual shift feature stop working? Really odd behavior.

I'm pulling the valve body to have a look tonight, and do my air checks again.

Any other suggestions / ideas?
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to the forum. There are some 545 gurus here that can help. Did you do a relearn after the trans rebuild?
 
#3 ·
I forgot to mention, I have AE with the Chrysler package. Yes I did a learn right after the solenoid pack. My original solenoid pack had a grey connector. I put it back in after the rebuild, because it bench checked fine, but in D, it wouldn’t let line pressure go over 40 psi or so, so I changed it out for a new white connector one, and now my desired and actual follow each other.
 
#4 ·
So the trans is not shifting on its own correctly after a full rebuild and pretty much every single thing new.

Did you change the pistons? Not just the steels and clutches? Is the over pressure release intact the little metal thing near the screw on filter inside the trans. What are the CVI numbers your getting after the relearn?
 
#5 ·
I don’t remember the CVI numbers, those are in my other computer, I’ll have to let you know on that one. I didn’t replace pistons, I resealed the accumulator pistons and clutch pistons. But yes everything new. It’s entirely possible I put one of the clutches back together wrong.
 
#8 ·
I don’t remember. The trans shop guy asked me that too, and I just pulled clutch plates out and tossed em in a pile. None of em were terrible, but there was one that was burnt, but I didn’t make note of which one.

So those accumulator pistons could cause a no shift? I thought they were for making the transitions smoother, but had little to do with the actual getting into whatever gear.
 
#10 ·
I don't have any pre-build cvi numbers, because it was an auction buy and I rebuilt it from the beginning.
This is for a test drive actually after the rebuild, but before the new solenoid pack (I didn't take a post-solenoid-pack test)
LR cvi was 90
UD was 49

I don't have a 2nd and a 4th, but my AE has a "1st 2-3 OD clutch" and a "1st 3-4 OD clutch" which, I assume are 2nd and 4th. Those were both at 62. I'm not an AE expert, but I'm learning.
 
#17 ·
Original equipment pid

Not the pistons in the VB the pistons in the clutch pack and planetary sets areas. They are steel with rubber lips on them they are very common to fail and if bad will for sure give you a no shift issue as they are what holds the fluid to complete the shift when commanded.

The VB white plug is the new design I believe and what all the trans shops put in not 100% on that but I think that’s what was in mine.
 
#18 ·
I’m confused on the white plug / grey plug matter, so I ordered a grey plug solenoid pack, and I’ll compare my results. The white one has the wrong p/n on it, BUT there’s a letter from Fiat Chrysler in the box that says if you had a grey connector, you can use the white connector. As far as the clutch pack seals go, I replaced the ones I could (without a press) and had my local tranny shop do the others. I have a press, I just didn’t want to make a tool just for this.

I think, more or less the 545 is a good trans, it just doesn’t respond well to customized setups, and mine is totally stock. I did a 48re behind a Cummins a few years ago, and that thing was rock solid. Anyway, not trying to start a fight about the trans 🙂 I just want mine to shift.

I noticed one other thing the other day as I was backing it to where the surgery is going to happen. There’s a noise in R. It’s almost like a hissing noise. I dunno WTH is up with that. So it’s definitely coming out. I’m going to get started tonight hopefully as soon as I fix my damn garage door 🙂

Where would I find those PIDs anyway? Tech authority maybe?
 
#25 ·
In my autoenginuity, I have LR clutch fill volume index, UD clutch fill volume index (those are obvious). But I also have "1st 2-3 OD clutch fill volume index" and "1st 3-4 OD clutch fill volume index". Do you have any idea what those last 2 are for?

A buddy of mine came over last night and we got that trans out in record time (for me). A little shy of 4 hours for 2 idiots rolling around on the ground impresses me :)

I found metal in the pan, much more than just a few specs. Something's grinding in there. I'm going riding today, so I might not have the smoke to start tearing into it tonight, but if not tonight, then tomorrow. Stay tuned.
 
#28 ·
Installing the trans oil pump can be a challenge. It has to set in place. Sometimes, you have to spin or wobble the input clutch housing for the oil pump to drop into place.If you bolt down the oil pump without it setting in place. It will eat up some stuff. Same for installing the torque converter. You have to make sure it's seated all the way in.

The ATSG 545RFE tech manual is a BIG help with all the spec's and the little tricks to the 545RFE trans.


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