Little engine install issue - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:08 AM   #1
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Well after much deliberation I decided to get a new/reman engine for my sons 05 ram 1500 4x4. Surprisingly I got it in a week. I powdercoated the valve covers and she looks pretty. I had huge problems when I was pulling the old engine out with the bracket that ties the motor mount, front differential and tranny together. I actually broke the ear off the top of the diff and had to get another differential.

I have the motor in now but this bracket is kicking my a$$. Are there any tricks to this thing that maybe I'm missing? I'm about 1/2" from it being where it needs to be. Honestly I'm still trying to figure out why this bracket is even needed since the motor is bolted to a mount, the diff is bolted to the motor mount on the other side and the tranny is obviously bolted to the back of the motor. Seems like over kill tying the 3 together. Friggin engineers...lol

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Old 10-19-2020, 03:37 PM   #2
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It’s been awhile since I actually saw the bracket but yes it’s likely over kill
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:56 PM   #3
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Thats the bracket. The front is actually part of the motor mount. Then it dips down to the front differential with the 3 bolts then the tail end has two bolts to the tranny.
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:14 PM   #4
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That’s a brace for the diff front mount section. If the diff is mounted good enough you should be ok without it but don’t quote me on this without seeing it in person I don’t know
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:36 PM   #5
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I got everything mounted good except the 2 bolts to the front of the tranny. So, 2 the 4 bolts to the block, the 2 bolts through the engine mount and 3 on the diff. Plus the diff has 2 bolts on the other motor mount. Since the tranny is bolted to the damn motor and the motor is now bolted to the mount which is bolted to the frame....f$%& those other 2 bolts...lol
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Old 10-23-2020, 05:30 AM   #6
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Sounds like overkill and should be fine without them
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:59 AM   #7
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So late last night we finally turned the key on it. I made sure I built up pressure in the fuel rail and bled out a little bit first to make sure there wasn't any air. Cranked for a second and it started. It ran for about 2 seconds and shut off. When we try to start it again, as soon as i turn the key it sounds like I have an electrical short somewhere. My son got a couple of batteries mixed up. 1 was dead and the other was good a month ago. Like a dummy I never put it on trickle charge. So I charged both all night. I have the one i THINK is good in it now. Ive had my volt meter out for about 2 hrs now checking fuses and continuity for grounds. I think i figured out which battery is good but when I turn the key on and start it just clicks and I get the little red dot blinking next to the fuel guage. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that's the security thing. How do I reset that if it IS that?
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Old 10-23-2020, 10:45 AM   #8
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Both batteries test good
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Old 10-23-2020, 12:34 PM   #9
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Update: so I got it to start but it won't stay running unless I feather the gas. The break in procedure for the new motor says to hold it at 2k RPMs for 20 minutes but I had to stop at about 10 minutes because it was getting too hot. Like the thermostat hadn't opened yet. But I know there isn't enough coolant in the block yet. I tried putting some in before I put the hoses on and thermostat but I couldn't get much in. Not sure why it won't stay running though. Guessing a TB relearn issue?
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:29 PM   #10
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After letting it cool I was able to add more coolant and were good to go there. It still won't idle but I got an O2 sensor code and a cam sensor code. I was a little nervous to hear my local dealership parts guy didn't know what "bank 1, sensor 2" means...lol...i found a different dealership!! Hopefully that'll fix it. Im assuming it was running lean or rich and the computer couldn't figure it out. Ill let you know shortly
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