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A518/46rh/46re/47/48re rebuild

140K views 2K replies 27 participants last post by  Redtruck-VA 
#1 ·
Ok all these trains are basically the same internally design wise. The 47/48 have a stronger planetary set in them but it is interchangeable into the 518/46 models. I have a 518 that I am tearing down now for a rebuild. The trains as of rite now needs a front planetary it is aluminum and only 4 pin design that's not going to work for me upgrading to steel 5 pin set. The rear planetary I cannot get to yet as there is what they call an 800lb spring that requires a press to get out. This is not a step that in anyway can be or should be done without a press it can kill you! Look at this thing
 

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#54 ·
That should hold anything you throw at it. And if it doesn't then it's billet time.....
 
#56 ·
I really don't see it spinning. So shouldn't be an issue.
 
#57 ·
ok well since I had ordered the bolt in sprag and had it here said im going to do it anyway to avoid any possible issue there may be! only issue with the sprag is there is an install jig for another $100 you need to buy. I said nope im sure I can come up with a way to make a jig to drill the holes how I need to. well in talking to Neil and James at the rumble yesterday since they work with/near machinist all day they gave me the idea of transferring the bolt holes to some lexan then to the trans. here is what I came up with and it worked great. as you can see!

1. is the jig I made from 3/16 lexan I had here
2. jig bolted down in the trans
3. holes drilled (only first step final holes were 3/16" for bolts
4. sprag installed sitting fully flush with case
 

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#58 ·
here is how the sprag bolts on the back side. notice the bolts are hidden in the groves. there is a support plate that goes on the rear here for the intermediate shaft and governor pressure tubes that will hide these bolts from site. they are in and red loc-tited in they wont be coming out that's for sure!
 

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#60 · (Edited)
Keith, nicely done. Great install.....
How do the bushings look?
 
#62 ·
The bushings in all the parts look fine. None of the brass is scored up or gouged at all that I can see. Finally had time at work to clean the two sections. Actually found a placard under the dirt that it has been rebuilt by some MOPAR performance place somewhere. There is a number on it going to see if I can call and get any info on it. Pics coming soon once I get case back home tomm!
 
#63 ·
That's interesting, did you find any information on the cooling fitting we talked about?
 
#65 · (Edited)
That sounds odd. I know the pitch is 18 this. I'll have to look...

I found it. The Sonnax repair kit
Includes special tap for case threads.
The key word is special tap.
If I remember correctly there is commercially available 1/4 " pipe taps that have straight thread. So maybe that tap isn't so special after all.
 
#66 ·
Today at work had a little free time so I tapped the cooler holes in the case to 1/2-20 thread so I can run 1/2-20 to -6 AN fittings for my new cooler lines. Note the back end of the case or top in the picture the fitting thread area to wall is very thin. So I took this step and made sure not to have this happen.
 

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#67 ·
Keith, that bracket in the picture won't be needed. Good job on the fix.
 
#69 ·
I had a three foot cable on the Fastgate and it wouldn't reach, the five foot cable fits fine.
 
#70 ·
For the temperature sensor, I first welded a bung on the passenger side of the pan but the sensor was closer to the exhaust pipe than I liked so welded another bung on the rear of the pan which IMO better.
 
#71 ·
If your cross breed trans works out, would you consider building a duplicate for a needy friend :coolsmiley:
 
#73 ·
you would build one for me and ship it ?
 
#75 · (Edited)
If it works out?
Are you forgetting that mine is both installed and running fine as a complete stand alone?
 
#77 ·
The question I have about the newer trucks is can the automatic (tcm) side be turned off or is there a manual trans pcm available? As always it's the damn electronics that make things difficult.
 
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