What do you guys think of this kit? Is it worth the cost? I kinda think its too expensive but not sure? Ive been thinking of buying all the parts as funds allow until I have everything i need to get the swap done. I need to get this done to have better control of the pre boost/ trans shifting issue I've been experiencing for a while now. What do you guys think it’ll cost to get everything from trans to all the parts needed to make it strong?
I have issues with John Cope, he owes me money and is not trust worthy from the dealings I've had with him. The flex plate is around $115, starter motor around $185. Floor shifter (??) you can make up your cooling lines. Cross member just needs the mounting holes elongated. Drive shaft fits. Keith is the forum goto guy for this conversion. Martin Saine IMO the goto guy for 700hp - 1000+ hp trans and ultra billet converters rated for 1000+hp transbrakes.
My recommendation is build your own kit....
Thanks i thought i remembered reading about Cope owing you money. I figured the kit might be overpriced. I do plan on piecing together my own kit then handing it off to Keith for the build. Moneys tight lately if not id buy all the parts at once. Gonna start looking for a 46re. If i find one does it need to be off a 4x4 truck since id like to keep my 4x4 working?
Go with an ATS built 545rfe and Copilot. ATS really has gotten the 545rfe trans problems worked out. Really happy with my ATS setup. It shifts nice and it's holding the power. And it works great with a 3000 stall tc.
Key note: ATS uses the Smart Tech hub as well. :whistling:
But, if you instantiate on using the 46re. Keith is your man. :thumb:
After owning an eight speed and now with the swap being possible for our gen 3 trucks I would say to give it some thought. It isn't cheap though but I have more than double into my 545 as I have currently into my eight speed.
Your going to need a a518/46rh from a 4x4. This way you don’t need to have a module to control it. Your factory t case and shafts will all work just fine.
The rebuild kit for the 700hp is really not that expensive from transmission center. The flex and all the little odds and ends are way cheaper to get yourself.
Get this kit if you want to turn it up some. Use the kit you posted if you want to be Able to drive the truck around and beat on it a little bit more than you are now.
So I don't plan on taking it to the track unless maybe on a group meet here and there but I do need it to be reliable and capable of driving cross state lines if needed while still having street performance and torque. Is the 46rh swap a reliable swap? Or is it more of a daily/race truck type swap?
With that said do you think this kits a better option or will the other be good enough
I use a Martin Saine built 46re with manual valve body. Red I believe was the first to do this conversion and I'm still on the first trans. I did change to Martin's Ultra billet 9" converter 3500 stall. It makes a very streetable combo and I can drive it using only 3rd gear for stop and go and then lock the converter and OD for highway. With 3:91 gear and 31"x16" tire I can still punch it and spin the tires from a stand still.. Make for a very fun truck...
I don't know what hp red makes. But with the cog belt it has low end boost like a blower and pulls top like a turbo. It's a good combo.. making 17psi @6000.
ATS transmissions are built for what you want them too do. Stage II: Daily driver/towing, 400hp. Stage III: Daily driver/towing 600hp.
One of the things I like about my ATS trans, it shifts like a stock trans. Now keep in mind, the 2800 stall Pro Edge is acting like a 3000 stall tc in my 05. So if it shifts hard, the tc will take some of the hard shift out of it. My modded stage III Shardon 545rfe trans in my 03 shifts hard with the stock tc. It gets annoying after a while...
Clint (ATS Diesel Performance) addresses and fixes several of the problems with the 545rfe & 68rfe transmissions. Great info vid. Note: See the Smart Tech Overdrive Hub assembly... These are just vids for you to look at. The rest is up to you. :thumb:
Just got off the phone with Martin Saine and I ask him about driving in 3rd gear only. He said thats how he drives his diesel. So for daily driving it doesn't get any easier and when racing I hit it in 1st, immediately shift to 2nd. Peddle it so you are not hard into the revv limiter. A built 46re with manual vb is the real deal that can take the abuse of big boost power. My advice is do it right the first time and not worry about it anymore.
Martin is easy to talk to... tell him about your truck. How you use it. What you want it to do, horsepower, weight, gears, tires, possible future mods. He'll recommend what level trans will work and that will mostly determine price.
Excellent information! A couple things to consider. Is when the pcm senses the trans is in park or neutral it has a revv limiter. Easy for your tuner to reset to whatever you want. A single 12v power wire from the ASD powers both coils and injectors. This power source splits in the top harness near the front of the engine. If you want to interrupt the coils/injectors cutting into this supply would be a convenient way of doing it. There is no convenient way of getting a rpm trigger. Using coils/injectors which are cut off during deceleration doesn't provide a quality trigger. The only way I know to have a quality rpm trigger is to take the signal from the crank sensor and process it using Megasquirt box. There are added advantages in doing this as it will also datalog and provide various switches to activate add-on's. Thanks for sharing your information.
I never had an issue with losing the rpm signal during deceleration, but i did end up installing a tach signal generator (autometer p/n 9117) for a cleaner and more stable signal. i believe the crank position sensor can be used for an rpm signal as the pcs software can be set to recognize a missing tooth signal.
I have used the Autometer 9117 and found it to have a quality square wave but suffered from the same quirks as tapping an injector. Glad your setup is working for you. I have since removed it and back to a simple coil tap using a MSD Induction tap.
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