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Old 09-10-2020, 09:08 PM   #41
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Will be waiting for a call
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Old 09-11-2020, 01:44 AM   #42
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Maybe some more install pics?
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Old 09-11-2020, 03:50 PM   #43
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Torque converter stall should reflect your vehicle's weight gear ratio and the ability of your engine to make torque. If the converter is too tight the engine can't spin into it's power range. If too loose it'll spin through the engine power range missing the moment of applying power to the ground. Factory choose 2600 stall for their R/T- 4:10 gear.. with more cam, 2800 stall works great for a street truck. With alot of cam and noticeable loss of low end higher stall converter is needed. Gear ratio and weight also needs to be considered in selecting comverter size/stall. I recommend talking to Martin or a converter builder to select what works for your setup. I like to describe a converter action by using a rubber band with a weight suspended from it. Bounce the weight up and down holding the end of the rubber band. The weaker the rubber band the more energy stored in the rubber band. Too weak there is lost of control of the stored energy. Too tight there is no energy stored. Hope that made sense...
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Old 09-11-2020, 07:36 PM   #44
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I have 4:56 gears running 33 possibly going up in the future to 35 tires. Engines currently stock but spoke with Jay Greene a while back and the cam he recommended was 209/222 to compliment the blower. What do you guys think? 2800 stall?
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Old 09-11-2020, 08:36 PM   #45
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That cam should have pretty good grunt, your truck I'm guessing is heavy. My guess 2800 stall will allow you to transition to full boost without issue. Should be a lot of fun with the 46re trans. On a previous build I went from 33" to 35" and found they killed performance and I needed more brakes. I was not happy with them..
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1956 Jeep Willys Pickup Hemi powered "Street Rod project"

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Current 1/4 mile [email protected] (2018)
Current 60' PB 1.351 (2019) mechanical issue for 1/4m

HTC 2018 TOTY

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Old 09-16-2020, 06:58 PM   #46
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Just heard back from Martin. He spoke with Keith and they figured out ill need a 46RE in order to keep the factory transfer case in its current location. He mentioned ill need a stand alone controller. Would that be for lock up and od?
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Old 09-16-2020, 07:24 PM   #47
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Are you going to use a manual valve body? If so all you'll need is two switches. One for lockup and the other for OD. If you are using a auto shifting valve body then a stand alone TCM and TV cable is needed.
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1956 Jeep Willys Pickup Hemi powered "Street Rod project"

1# 2017 HTC FASTEST HEMI List....
Current 1/4 mile [email protected] (2018)
Current 60' PB 1.351 (2019) mechanical issue for 1/4m

HTC 2018 TOTY

Support vehicle- 2007 QC G56 4x4 diesel
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Old 09-16-2020, 07:36 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redtruck-VA View Post
Are you going to use a manual valve body? If so all you'll need is two switches. One for lockup and the other for OD. If you are using a auto shifting valve body then a stand alone TCM and TV cable is needed.
I didn't know i can go full automatic. I thought my only option was manually shifting. I think i prefer automatic.
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Old 09-16-2020, 09:21 PM   #49
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I first went full auto vb. But soon changed to manually shifting. I used pressure switches to control shifts and switches for OD & LU. When using the auto vb you need a TV cable to control clutch pressure when auto shifting. The problem is the pressure switches are determined by speed alone with no input from the throttle. So mostly you find you are in the wrong gear and have manually shift anyway. With alot of R&D I believe you could retro fit a early primitive TCM from say a 96' ram and make it work as well as it did in 96'. But IMO hardly worth the effort. I think you will find using a manual vb and using 2nd & 3rd is a lot of fun and no inconvenient in any way.
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2003 RCSB, 2wd, "Pro-Street"
6.4L/cog driven V7-Ysi/46rh trans/HTH Truckarm coilover suspension. HP Tuning...

1956 Jeep Willys Pickup Hemi powered "Street Rod project"

1# 2017 HTC FASTEST HEMI List....
Current 1/4 mile [email protected] (2018)
Current 60' PB 1.351 (2019) mechanical issue for 1/4m

HTC 2018 TOTY

Support vehicle- 2007 QC G56 4x4 diesel
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:48 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redtruck-VA View Post
I first went full auto vb. But soon changed to manually shifting. I used pressure switches to control shifts and switches for OD & LU. When using the auto vb you need a TV cable to control clutch pressure when auto shifting. The problem is the pressure switches are determined by speed alone with no input from the throttle. So mostly you find you are in the wrong gear and have manually shift anyway. With alot of R&D I believe you could retro fit a early primitive TCM from say a 96' ram and make it work as well as it did in 96'. But IMO hardly worth the effort. I think you will find using a manual vb and using 2nd & 3rd is a lot of fun and no inconvenient in any way.
If i end up going with the swap i definitely dont want any shifting issues. Its pretty much the main reason ive thought of getting rid of the truck now. I think ill stick with the manual shifting. Sounds like what ime looking for.
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