Howdy guys,
New member here, stumbled across this site while trolling for 545 info. I really want to slap a Procharger on my 09 1500 4x4 but the transmission question has stopped me dead for the moment. I've read until my eyes are about to bleed, so can anyone give me a straight answer- if I don't force downshifts under load then what is a reasonably priced reman that will hold up??
The 238 is rated @ 385ft lbs, but the test is similar to the one that tremec uses where the torque is a constant application in 1 to 1. They take the average break point reading and rate it back 25% for safety margin., Actual break point can be anywhere from 450-510.... 450 is a more realistic break point.
Tremec uses a 30% rate on the t56&tko.
just don't do any 5k clutch drops with 14 inch slicks and it's live fine. I think I've said it before but One of our bigger contractors his kid has had a 238 in his 03 since 05, 1st box lasted a year, he was very rough on it 2nd lasted 2years it was the 1st rebuilt half a$$ed the 3rd has been in there since mid 09 and it's still going strong.
I've driven the truck a few times, 1st gear is just about useless, it scoots along nicely and if I pull the 428 out of my 14 I'm going to put a 238 behind the warmed over 5.7 that will go it it.
Beyond useless, remember the 238 is 5+1, so 1st gear is 4.23:1 4.56X4.23=19.29 where is the 545 is 3.0 :1 3.0X4.56 =13 .68
Realistically , you would almost never use 1st unless you had a heavy load in the bed or were towing your buddys Fud F250 when it breaks.
I just picked up a core 545 going to build it for my DD slightly modified. I do mostly hauling in bed and towing bobcat, equip etc. I have looked at Monster in a box stuff and Sonnax OD upgrade. My biggest problem has been temp with current build in 545. Keith I was wondering with my tune if stall should be changed alittle from stock? It seems none of you guys with performance stuff stay with this trans. I'm not making the power you guys are but I need something strong and that will stay cooler.
I have the stock 03 2500 larger cooler out front. It covers about half the damn rad. I think my biggest problem is sitting in traffic. Gets hot at low rpms and after I get moving it comes back down slowly. It's better since I got my full aluminum rad going. Keeping engine temp down.
Transmissions should only be making heat from TQ slippage. The more the converter slips and the greater the resistance making it slip is the source of heat. At cruise with TCC locked temp should be steady declining to around 110. With the TCC unlocked hard into it the temp usually climbs quickly to the range it operates in.
So what do you think my problem is? It will climb over 200 sitting in traffic. This thing has not cooled right from day one of rebuild. I blew out cooler before reinstall and seemed pretty clear. Sometimes I have to put in neutral at start up to get fluid moving for it to move. I have had limp mode 3 times in last 8 months. Once during snowstorm in Dec '17 and twice in last month and a half. So outside temp doesn't seem to matter with this thing. :banghead: I want to build this new one well with all the good stuff I can.
No way should it get that hot at a stop light. When I ran a 545 it never went above 180 even with a 3000 stall converter making back to back pulls. If the cooler isn't 100% then change it. There is a flow test in the manual. Disconnecting the return line and measuring the amount of fluid pumped out. This should be a good check for pump and cooler flow.
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