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Old 01-25-2009, 04:27 PM   #1
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Amp question

I just bought some Infinity Kappa 6x9"s for the front doors, Kappa 5.25"s for the rear doors, and going to buy 3.5"s for the dash. I would like to know the best way to power them all, keeping in mind that I will also be getting a fox box with two 12"s later on. I'm planning on using the stock deck (factory amp removed) with the MTX RE-Q5 to convert to pre-outs for the amps. I would like to run only 2 amps under the front seats. Is this possible? Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-25-2009, 05:39 PM   #2
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Amp question

You should be able to do that!
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:24 PM   #3
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Amp question

the possibilties are endless if u know what ur doin or have money to fix it if u dont
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bruce:
the possibilties are endless if u know what ur doin or have money to fix it if u dont
Good point! I guess my question should be, what two amps should I get to run six speakers and 2 subs? I would like to run everything Infinity but I am open to changing things as far as the amplifier and maybe the subs.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:02 AM   #5
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Amp question

Personally I would get a good 4 Channel amp that is stable to 2 ohms! Run your front doors and dash off the 4 channel. This will make it to where you can adjust the dash speakers vs the door speakers and control imaging and keep the 3.5's from blowing up!

Rears Id run dry off the h/u cause those are back there for rear fill, and once you get subs you wont hear much from them either.

Second amp is a good sub amp then and you have kept your system adjustable, and putting the $ where you need to be, UP FRONT!

If you want to wire the rears on an amp, I would suggest another 4 channel thats 2 ohm stable also, run your subs at 2ohms and have your door speakers on another channel on that amp and gives you control of the rears if your just wanting an amp on them too!

Hope this helps out! But for sure no issues running 6 speakers, you can even wire the dash in with the front door but gives you no adjustability and the dash speakers will blare very hard while you wont hear anything from the door with that settup!
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:34 PM   #6
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Amp question

Run some form of x-over or some form of signal processor and use two amps. The stock head unit is kinda gay as far as getting signals out to what they should be and running an aftermarket speaker out of one of those outputs is not going to sound right. Get one 4 channel amp, run dash and front 6x9's bridged on front channel then run the rears on rear channels. A lot of amps have separate gain controls for each channel so turn it down for the rear smaller speakers. Then run a mono amp and bridge your subs to your liking.
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:46 PM   #7
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Amp question

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by whitelight:
Run some form of x-over or some form of signal processor and use two amps. The stock head unit is kinda gay as far as getting signals out to what they should be and running an aftermarket speaker out of one of those outputs is not going to sound right. Get one 4 channel amp, run dash and front 6x9's bridged on front channel then run the rears on rear channels. A lot of amps have separate gain controls for each channel so turn it down for the rear smaller speakers. Then run a mono amp and bridge your subs to your liking.

Only thing I have an issue with there is runing 6x9's and dash speakers on the same channel, the wattage is too much for most 3.5" speakers and you will not hear your midbass due to keeping yoru gains down to keep the 3.5's from distorting. The imaging will be crappy and all you will hear is the dash speakers, I know Ive done it, and was highly unpleased.

This is why I went to 6.5" componet set with tweeters mounted on the pillars. Amazing clearity and almost perfect imaging. Then you could run 1 4channel for mids and highs, and a mono sub amp and that will give you clearity and keep your adjustments alot easier.

A Line driver/converter by audiocontrol is the best way to convert from factory to amplifiers, gives you control of line voltages to the amps!

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:16 PM   #8
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Amp question

I was thinking of using this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-R56cTs3...MTX-re-Q5.html

This way I can run my Sirius and iPod too. Also, I may just go with one 12" sub. That way I can run 2 of the same amps with the rears and the sub on one amp, and all four fronts on the other. Sure would like to have two 12" though.....
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:22 PM   #9
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Should work with no issues that I see! Better than the old skool pac converters for sure!
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:02 PM   #10
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Amp question

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by brand_x_racing:
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by whitelight:
Run some form of x-over or some form of signal processor and use two amps. The stock head unit is kinda gay as far as getting signals out to what they should be and running an aftermarket speaker out of one of those outputs is not going to sound right. Get one 4 channel amp, run dash and front 6x9's bridged on front channel then run the rears on rear channels. A lot of amps have separate gain controls for each channel so turn it down for the rear smaller speakers. Then run a mono amp and bridge your subs to your liking.

Only thing I have an issue with there is runing 6x9's and dash speakers on the same channel, the wattage is too much for most 3.5" speakers and you will not hear your midbass due to keeping yoru gains down to keep the 3.5's from distorting. The imaging will be crappy and all you will hear is the dash speakers, I know Ive done it, and was highly unpleased.

This is why I went to 6.5" componet set with tweeters mounted on the pillars. Amazing clearity and almost perfect imaging. Then you could run 1 4channel for mids and highs, and a mono sub amp and that will give you clearity and keep your adjustments alot easier.

A Line driver/converter by audiocontrol is the best way to convert from factory to amplifiers, gives you control of line voltages to the amps!

Hope this helps!
Using passive x-overs on the 3.5's fixes that.
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