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Knightmoves build!

65K views 892 replies 21 participants last post by  Redtruck-VA 
#1 ·
Well as some of you know I am a new member here and was looking for a place to place to start my build thread! So the Va section of the forum it is! So for a little fill in I have an 06 ram 1500 slt. Hemi power of course! It is a standard cab short bed. or shorty as I like to call them. I traded in my old 98 ram for this on due to it being just to flat out worn out! But the 5.2 still ran good!! So the plan for this build is both cosmetic and performance. I want a great street truck that can play at the track too! Here is a couple of current pics!



First mod was to add factory fog lights!



Next was to delete the rear bumper and tint the tail lights!!




Future plans are a Mopar A body hood scoop, a simple but striking paint job, lowering,A 518 trans,and a "few" engine mods!!!( FEW? right!!!LOL):coolsmiley: and ether a locker or limited slip diff,and lastly a set of cal tracs!
 
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#2 ·
Sounds like a plan. :thumb::thumb:
 
#4 ·
Truck is off to a good start. Will be fun to watch the progress.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the support guys! I really want to work this truck due to the fact there has to be at least 50 silver 3rd gen trucks in my area!!!LOL Oh and charged392 you need to post if you are still making them and just how much you charge for them!!!LOL
 
#7 ·
$250 shipped to your door!

Benefits wheel hop gone, not rough ride like caltracs sometimes can be, fun.

Downside you loose 1.5" of ground clearance (I have never hit a speed bump and I'm lowered 4"), you have to drill 4 holes they from section of frame to bolt bracket on or weld it your choice.
 
#9 ·
IMO, axle control is very important with our trucks, even more so if the O/L spring is removed as many of us have done. Your driveline will thanks you.
 
#12 ·
Unless you need that extra inch of lowering I would just leave the overload spring in place. Axle control is a Deff must for performance. Just let me know when you want to talk long bar. I have most all the parts now here at house for a set. You will like them a lot
 
#17 ·
Maybe you can repost some pictures of one installed or direct us back to your "long bar" thread. I know I'd be interested.
Thanks,
 
#19 ·
1. Long bars are cheaper in price than Caltracs.:thumb:

2. Long bars are more simpler and don't require as much maintenance or adjustment than Caltracs.:thumb:

3. You have to pull the pins out of the Caltracs to get the street ride back after every track use.:sad:

4. You have to be careful when jacking up the truck and letting the rear suspension down. The Caltrac bars will hit the leaf spring rivets putting bending pressure on the bars.:eek::holysheep::doh:

5. If your power braking at the line without a trans brake. The Caltracs are rendered useless just by the way they're designed to work.:sad:

6. To get the Caltracs to work at their best. Takes allot of rear suspension tinkering, adjusting, lowering and weight transfer back on the rear suspension to assist the Caltracs in traction.:blink:
7. Long bars work as good as Caltracs at the track. In some situations. Better than the Caltracs.:thumb:

How do I know all this? Have Caltracs on my truck and their almost set perfectly. Could have saved me some time and money with long bars.........:blink::blink::blink::facepalm:
 
#20 ·
I'll agree to the Long Bars are a very effective and simple way to gain axle control. But on the other hand I also haven't experienced some of the difficulties mentioned. Maybe mine aren't set at an optimum point and are less of a problem being so. I would have probably gone with long bars if they had been available when I put mine together. It's a good system and I have used ladders and long bars long ago on a couple of my rides.
 
#22 ·
I just got off the phone with Danny at SharaDon Performance. He said for what I want to do a 3 wire 518 is the trans I need. It was produced from 1994 back and he told me it is just a 727with over drive! He told me he can set it up for about $1800 to $2300. Now that I have that straight I can now start working out getting all of this paid for!!!LOL:brows:
 
#24 ·
Don't forget that it also has a Lockup converter and can be locked up in 2nd and 3rd. The OD ratio is .67 which is near the same as the 545's .69.
And finally I was told a mildly modified 518 can handle 750hp.:dance:
 
#27 ·
I'm not sure of the year, but I believe the newer A518 trans housing has provision for a wiring harness so the gear selection can be wired to the gauge cluster. Not necessary but might be a cool to maintain.
 
#28 ·
he told me not to use the newer 518's due to the computer it needs. the older (aka pre 95) only had 3 wires that were used to lock up the converter and shift the OD. I'm not to tore up over the dash shift gauge I will more than likely buy a after market floor shifter and call it done!:dance:
 
#29 ·
The question that isn't clear to me is what needs to be done about the starter motor. Reading I've been lead to believe that a special starter is needed, but this has never been clarified specifically to me. As for a floor shift, they are a must in my book. I hated fumbling with the column lever.

 
#31 ·
My understanding is that the starter bolts to the trans. the starter will move with the trans. as far as the 3/16ths of spacer needed i am pretty sure it is dealt with with the spacer kit Danny talked about on the phone. the flex plate also aligns the Tq converted which is why I believe that will cover the excess space created by the spacer.Because what I have been reading no one is saying a thing about using a special starter for the swap. AND maybe the 3/16's doesn't make a difference any way?
 
#32 ·
I have been told that more than one of these trans has been bolted up and ruined due to the lack of converter clearance. So make sure the TC isn't jammed when assembling. Still would like to see some pictures of an install.
 
#36 ·
Holy thread jack Batman!!!LOL But I did read the wholr thread! I like what you have done! I will be sending you some pay pal info soon after I get my hood scoop paid for LOL!!!!!!
 
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