I am rather embarrassed to even put this out there, but I need some help. I have delved into changing the transmission fluid and both filters on my 03 ram. I recently acquired a Mag Hytec tranny pan (thanks ybnormal). I decided to wait until the service was needed before installing the new pan. Cutting to the chase....the pan is in and fluid has been refilled. Here's my problem. I have checked the fluid level when cold AND hot. I pull the dipstick out, I have fluid. I wipe it, put it back into the tube to recheck. The damn thing is bone dry. What gives???? :banghead:I have no codes and the idiot light tranny gauge has not lit up, and my after market gauge reads normal. I know I've put fluid in, but where is it going? A neighbor suggested that maybe it's leaking into the coolant. That too seems normal; I am not leaking anywhere. I know this sounds like a "duh" moment, but like I said, this is the first tranny fluid I've changed. I have called the local dealership and they want $105 just to tell me what's wrong. I don't think so. Any direction, suggestions and input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.....
Both filters and o-ring changed. I drained out about 6.5 quarts. I put in that same amount, but like I said, since it wasn't showing up on dipstick, I added more......much more. Fearing I added too much, I drained it again and started over. It seems to have been a big circle.
The stick should tell you for sure. I think the afternarket pan adds a few quarts but it should show on the stick. Your coolant will never get nasty the Rams have seperate coolers they don't mix into the coolant don't even go together. If it's not leaking on the floor then it's not full I would say.
Warm it up and check it in neutral. I don't remember about the 545 but many transmissions will not fill the converter while in park and you will see a higher fill Mark than it really has.
I had forgotten about the separate coolers. In regards to the level, that makes sense. However, I drained out 6.5 quarts. Once I had added that plus the 2 extra (for the deeper pan), it still wasn't on the stick. Once I to up to 11 total added. I stopped, fearing I put in too much. It's as if the thing is drinking the fluid: it's not leaking, nor is it in the pan according to the stick.
nope about the only way to completely drain a verter is cut it open. Did you check to see if the trans had the proper amount before you started your service? Not sure how much capacity your new pan adds. Also did you flush the cooler as that holds a bit of fluid as well?
No, come to think of it, I didn't check the level prior to the service. Nor did I flush the cooler. No flushing, just dropped the pan, changed both filters, re-installed pan, added fluid.
When I installed my deep trans pan on my stage III. It did the same thing to me. The deep trans pan hold more fluid than you think. Just keep adding fluid until it's at the correct level. :thumb:
Thank you to all. There was a while where I thought I was losing my mind. I know it had fluid, bc I was putting it in. It just wasn't showing on the stick. I didn't know that these deeper pans would hold that much more. I figured only about 2 more than stock. I will tackle this again tomorrow. Thanks again.
In which reminds me... Time for a fluid, trans, and trans pan inspection. Been doing some testing lately. Need to take a look and see how the stage III trans is doing.
When filling a 545 you are supposed to fill to a certain level depending on trans fluid temp. Check fluid level while in park and using a scan tool to monitor trans temp.
That's more for the vehicles with not stick and that special stick. For the 545 you fill till on stick start truck in neutral fill till on stick in low area let truck come to temp and full to bottom of hot range. Bottom of hot because trans will not be at its max temp just idling in one spot this way it leaves a little room when actually hot.
Just noticed in the 05. Have little bit of trans vibration & rattling once the trans is warmed and driving 40-65mph..... Have a slight amount of slipping feel at certain points of acceleration. Haven't thrown a code yet. You don't notice it until it's warmed up. It does have 163 thousand miles on it. So it's time.
When checking transmission fluid. Best way is to check it hot.
In regards to the level 2 wheel drive is 6.5 4x4 is 9.5 when doing both filters and pan drop. Filters are also different for 4 wheel drive vs 2 wheel drive. (Service book is wrong for 545 transmission levels on 4x4.) Just found out from doing my 07 4x4 last week.
Make sure and look at the dipstick to see how it should be checked. Usually neutral as listed above. 545 will not cycle fluid through the converter in park. Also make sure and look at the back of the dipstick. it should read the same as the front. If it reads lower then fluid level is lower.
Also don't use the rubber or paper gasket the give with the filter kit, Use Mopar transmission RTV part #5010884AA. 8.58 on Amazon. done many dodge transmissions with it and never had a leak. Knock on wood.
spend a few extra bucks and get Valvoline ATF +4 vs the cheaper brands. Valvoline is cleaner fluid and has better additives to dissipate heat. Also who makes mopar fluid i believe. Under no circumstance power flush a trans that is above 100,000 miles. you will regret it. Make sure and get a good filter Wix and Puraltor are top 2. Stay away from fram the media separates. Not trying to stir up anything here. Just relaying some experience.
Also make sure and rest the ECM. If transmission was slipping computer will remember in OBD2 system. Plus on the newer 545rfe the bands are not adjustable. The computer does it. (also something the Hays and Chilton manuals need to fix. Factory manual is correct here.)
use a torque wrench also when tighten the pan. Very critical to not warp the pan.
Yes the 545 does flow in park I only have proof of this because my trans drains back in less than 10mins some times lol. I have checked every known issue for this also to no avail.
Check ball in input shaft. Relief valve inside case area. Both filters. Valve body flatness and cross wear internally. Pump flatness and wear internally. Pump hole on some is plugged in edge near feeds mine was not I added plug. Last thing I have to try is the converter itself swap it out possibly cocking inside it creating enough room for air somewhere in there to come into play. This is all in the stage 3 Sharadon which I have pulled completly apart now twice lol looking for this issue and gave up. Now I just set tune to high idle around 1200 and drop over a 30 sec period the good to go.
My stage III will do that only if it hasn't been started in few weeks. Will just let it warm up a few minutes, cycle it though the gears, and go.
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