I had been thinking of doing an electric fan mod, since shortly after getting my truck. I called several manufacturers only to find no one made a 2002+ Ram specific model.
But Flex-a-lite said they were working on something for the new Ram, but would not be out until Jan 05. That fan is the 180 Extreme. I would not exactly call it a 2002+ Ram specific model, but it covers 90% of the radiator. The problem is we need to retain our factory shroud for hanging the coolant overflow/washer fluid tanks on. This is the reason is waited this long to do it. Then this fan showed up at my local speed shop, and they said as long as I didn’t open the electrical bag I could return it, if it did not fit. So I got it.
1. After inventorying the kit, remove the negative battery cable, trust me do it.
2. Then remove your factory overflow and washer fluid tanks. Each year is different the 03’s have the radiator cap on the tank, the 04’s have the cap on the radiator, the 05’s have the beast setup, it is a one piece deal. I have an 04 with the 05 tank. The 04 tanks tend to leak at the seam on top.
3. The shroud can be removed without removing the fan, so I did it this way to have more room for removing the fan later. The fan must be unbolted from the clutch though. The shroud is held on by 2 upper bolts on each side. Then tilt the top toward the motor and lift out.
4. The shroud has two “ears” that fit into slots in the radiator tanks, which hold the bottom off the shroud in place. I got out the saws-all and cut my shroud off from this point on down. The ears are needed to hold the shroud against the radiator. You may not want to do this so the shroud may require a little fitting at the bottom, similar to what we will do to the top.
5. Now the fun part, removing the clutch fan. Make sure no little ones are around for this part! It requires a special tool to hold the pulley still while loosening. Special tools are for girly men, I say make your own! Which is what I did using a piece of strap metal and a drill bit. Drill a hole in each end of the metal, anchor on end to a bolt head nearby, and put the drill bit or punch through the other end, and into the pulley hole. Turn the clutch nut CCW when standing in front of the truck! It’s not really on that tight, just tight enough so belt tension won’t hold the pulley still.
6. Remove the fan and clutch, put the clutch back on. I am not sure if the water pump pulley will stay on without the clutch nut.
7. Notch the top of the shroud for the brackets. Mark and notch the shroud at 7” & 14.5” from the right side. Also drill the hole in the radiator channel 7.5” to the left of the existing one. Do this on the bottom as well. On the bottom we will use the existing bolt that is used for the power steering cooler bracket. See pictures.
8. The next step is to take the brackets and cut them to length. Cut the 4 29003 brackets to 1.5 – 1.75”. Just like the example they give in the instructions. The upper bracket nearest the tanks should be as short as possible so it won’t hit inside the shroud.
9. Position the fan all the way to the driver’s side radiator tank, other wise it will not clear the passenger side of the factory shroud, and attach the drivers side upper bracket to the existing hole in the radiator. Use 3 washers as spacers between the bracket and the new fan. The new fan is about a half inch too small not to use the spacers. Do not tighten all the way yet.
10. Do the same for the other upper bracket using the hole you drilled 7.5” from the existing hole. Again do not tighten all the way.
11. Down to the bottom, do the same thing, only on the drivers side use the existing bolt and nut used to secure the power steering cooler. Use three washers under each bracket here too.
12. Once all the brackets are attached, have a friend push the fan towards the radiator to compress the rubber seal and tighten the bolts.
13. Reinstall the factory shroud, check for clearance at the brackets, adjust if need be.
14. Mount the control box.
15. Push the temp probe into radiator fins near the upper radiator hose.
16. Run the Blue wire from motor to the M+ terminal.
17. Run the Black wire from motor to the M- terminal.
18. Run the 10 Gauge red wire with fuse holder from battery to the B terminal.
19. Run the 10 Gauge black wire from ground to G terminal.
20.No need for A/C control wire, as the condenser is not in front of our radiators.
21. Now decision time. You can run the 14 gauge red wire from ignition source so fan will not turn on without key in, OR, an easier way is to run this wire to positive battery also, this will let the fan run for a min after engine shutdown.
22.Setting the temp. Set control knob to full hot. Get vehicle to normal temp, then turn the temp adjust knob cooler until it turns on, then turn just enough warmer until it shuts off. You’re done, except for tweaking of the temp.
23. Mine blew the 25 amp fuse every time it kicked on, I put in 30 amp fuse and have only blown one so far, on the first day, maybe once the electric motor bearings loosen up this wont be an issue. This fan will move as much air as the factory fan!